Carménère
Monday, November 24, marks the 20th anniversary of the rediscovery of Carménère, now Chile’s signature red wine. Although the red grape variety is one of the original types grown in Bordeaux, France, it was thought to be extinct, or at least very rare, until that fateful day in 1994 when the grapes believed to be Merlot were discovered to be Carménère.
French ampelographer (a botanist who specializes in grapevines) Jean Michel Boursiquot was visiting Chile and was tromping through vineyards in the Apalta Valley vineyards, part of the Colchagua Valley. He was studying the grapevines at Chile’s oldest winery, founded in 1850, when the grapevines were brought from France. Coincidentally, the winery’s name is Carmen.
The Carménère grapes grown in France were killed out in 1857 from the infestation of phylloxera insects. In Chile, however, the Carménère grape was
Carménère grapes
flourishing in the high-elevation vineyards. But for almost 150 years, the grape was thought to be Merlot because the leaves of the two varieties are almost identical. However, the two grapes don’t ripen at the same time, with Carménère reaching ripeness before Merlot.
Carménère tasting
Thus, for all those years the Merlot of Chile was considered “different.” But the winemakers were unwittingly producing a Carménère-Merlot blend.
By now, Carménère is the signature grape of Chile and is an extremely popular export.
In 2012 I was part of a wine writers’ tour of Chile and Argentina. My personal discovery of Carménère was a big moment for me. I loved the smooth, rich flavor of this dark purple wine. It’s been a favorite of mine ever since.
I’m saving a bottle of 2011 Gran Reserva Carménère from Carmen Winery for my Thanksgiving table. It will be the perfect accompaniment for all the delicious, rich food we’ll be consuming. Salud!